Faro retains its Portuguese atmosphere and the cut and thrust of a real city. Part of that is down the preservation of the interesting architecture, but also due to the presence of thousands of students who ensure the city buzzes day and night, packed with possibilities for visitors.
Wandering the old town
Dating back well before Roman occupation, Faro’s place in history is writ large in its architecture. Remains of Moorish buildings sit next to 18thcentury Portuguese relics.
The old city walls enclose Faro, making it a great place to park up and walk about in. Medieval arches separate different sections of the Cidade Velha, opening up onto ancient tree-lined squares.
Somewhat more macabre but equally fascinating is the Capela dos Ossos. This bone chapel is lined, in geometric patterns, with the bones and skulls of monks which were exhumed in the 19th century. The ossuary is open six days a week to visitors and sits close to the beautiful Carmo Church. With its twin belfries, this early 18th century church is petite and pretty, and a study in contrasts next to its neighbour.
Beach life
Among the many beaches in the area, Praia de Faro is perhaps the best of them all. Close to the city itself you’ll find 5km of soft sand on what is technically an island. To one side is the sea, on the other a lagoon. Water sports are popular here, and you’ll find plenty of vendors for jet skis, windsurfing and more.
West of Faro, Praia da Falesia is even longer. Close to Vilamoura, it’s popular with both tourists and locals, with cliffs along the back, shallow waters and beach restaurants. Many people walk from town to town along the beach, and there’s a hiking trail behind the cliffs if you want to wander among the pine trees. When you hire a car in Faro you’ll have plenty of boot space for towels, refreshments and whatever else you need for a lazy day on the sand.
Filling up in Faro
Eating and drinking in the Algarve is reasonably priced, and while many places cater directly to tourists, you’ll find plenty of restaurants and cafes that serve more traditional Portuguese cuisine. Fish and seafood are almost always on the menu – after all there is some 200km of coastline on your doorstep.
It’s traditional for waiters to bring the ‘couvert’ to your table. This may be bread, olives, pate or crudités and, while you may not have ordered them, you will have to pay the small charge for them if you eat them. Portugal is the home of spicy piri-piri seasoning, usually on chicken, and you’ll find plenty of places serving ‘frango’, often on a rotisserie.
Close to the cathedral, Faz Gostos is an acclaimed place where you can sample rock lobster bisque, smoked duck magret and oven-baked salt cod with corn bread. End your meal with a traditional Trouxa de Ovos before walking it off as the sun sets on the old town.
Faro is a place of rich tradition, guaranteeing a warm welcome to visitors whether on a city break or a week on the beach. Car hire in Faro will let you enjoy it all, and also get out to visit the rest of the wonderful Algarve.
