Umbria is Tuscany’s quieter, less touristy neighbour but it’s equally full of wonderful landscapes and beautiful old towns.
Perugia is a fitting capital because it is one of the most attractive and certainly one of the oldest cities. The heart of community is the Centro Storica (old city centre) within the city walls that encircle a steep hill.
Inside the walls this is a maze of cobbled alleys and narrow winding streets, with arches and stairways opening into tiny piazzas and huge palaces. From the top there are inspiring views of the terracotta roofs below and across the Tiber Valley and the rolling landscape of Umbria.
Exploring the historic sights
The whole of the Centro Storico is a sight worth exploring. It’s a charming place to wander through shady squares with fountains and climb well-worn steps under 500-year-old arches to find quirky little churches. But there are few landmarks worth ticking off too.
The National Gallery of Umbria is an art museum where you can gaze at one of Italy’s most prized collections. There’s a lot of art here - it is housed in 40 galleries within the vast medieval Palazzo dei Priori, the former medieval town hall. Try to find the highlights, which include masterpieces by Renaissance stars like Pisano and Della Francesca.
When you step outside don’t miss the Fontana Maggiore, an impressive medieval fountain that serves as one of the symbols of the city.
Across the square is the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. It hasn’t got the prettiest exterior but this simple gothic edifice dates back to 1300. Spot the little pulpit on the wall for priests to preach to people outside in the square. Inside, it’s a different story. You’ll find all sorts of Renaissance treasures to see.
Modern Perugia
Amid all the history, Perugia is also a thriving university city. There are modern suburbs but most students seem to be drawn to the old city after dark, creating a warm atmosphere around the cafes on the pavements and terraces. Look out too for a series of big annual festivals, including a jazz festival in April and a chocolate festival in October.
Away from all the history, fans of Italian fashion shops will find glossy high-end contemporary boutiques lining the main streets.
Access Assisi
It’s less than 30 minutes away by car, so there’s no excuse for not visiting one of Italy’s great landmarks. From the thousands of pictures and figurines in gift shops you’ll soon realise that Assisi is the birthplace of St Francis. There’s still a saintly atmosphere in the picturesque town perching on the side of Monte Subasio. The 800-year-old Franciscan monastery is a dominating landmark but take a stroll and you’ll find historic churches and castles throughout the town.
Lake Trasimeno
Trasimeno is a great destination for a day trip. Just a 40 minute drive to the west of Perugia, one of Italy’s largest lakes is a peaceful place for shoreline walks. The energetic can tackle swimming, volleyball and watersports, while the less energetic can find simple trattorias dotted along the water’s edge and watch them doing it.
