Hannover is, in many ways, the archetypal German city. A stately river, grand theatres and museums, impressive public gardens where people have promenaded for generations and a pride in regional food. It’s a great place to do business, too, known for the annual Hannover Messe and CeBit trade fairs that fill the city with delegates.
The Royal Gardens
If there’s one attraction that stands head and shoulders above all others in Hannover, it’s the Herrenhausen Gardens, or Herrenhäuser Gärten. They’re among the best in Europe, with Baroque elements making them truly memorable, no matter the season.
There are four gardens in all – the Welfengarten, Berggarten, Georgengarten and Grosser Garten, weaving in obvious influences from Versailles. Two of them can be accessed with a combination ticket, while the other two are free. Once inside, you’ll discover scented roses, a colourful grotto designed by Niki de Saint Phalle, museums, a treasured orchid collection, statues and more besides. Gorgeous all year round, they truly sing on a warm summer’s day.
Between two ages
Hannover does a nigh-on perfect job of blending its old elements with the new – making progress while preserving the best of its pre-war architecture. Take in the town hall – the Neues Rathaus – which survived World War II more or less intact, and has stood in place since 1913. It’s impressive from the outside, but the real joy lies within – ride up to the roof in the unique curved elevator that hugs the contours of the dome, where you’ll find four observation platforms, affording majestic views.
Directly opposite is the Lower Saxony State Museum with its art collection spanning nearly a millennium and a rich range of archaeological artefacts dating back half a million years. Make time for the Sprengel Museum too, a striking building that focuses on contemporary and modern art, ranging from Louise Bourgeois’ remarkable sculptures to pieces by Picasso.
One final museum, and one that perfectly captures that tightrope walk of old and new, Schloss Herrenhausen was originally built in the early 1800s, destroyed by bombs in World War II and then, using the original plans, reconstructed in 2013.
Exploring Hannover’s outdoors
Hannover is blessed with green spaces galore, few prettier than Eilenriede Forest, a huge swathe of trees, picnic spots and trails that is the largest city-based forest not just in Germany, but all of Europe – it’s double the size of Central Park in New York. There are playgrounds for children, plenty of cafes to idle at, while the bike tracks and romantic shaded paths are hugely popular with locals.
As is Maschsee, the city’s manmade lake. It’s served by solar-powered ferries, and boats are available for hire if you want to take to the tranquil waters yourself. It’s also where you’ll find some fine restaurants and the Sprengel Museum. Arrive in summer and you can take advantage of the three-week long annual Lake Festival, where all four banks come alive.
For a slice of real Germany, Hannover car hire is the way forward, with a fine city to explore and northern Germany’s other great destinations on your doorstep.