Bordeaux’s timeless appeal – whether it’s twinkling lights across the classical bridges that span the Garonne River, or the gothic and baroque churches that pepper the city – provides a lot for the visitor to sink their teeth into.
The Golden Triangle
Known locally as the Triangle d’Or, the area surrounded by Cours Clemenceau, Allees de Tourny and Cours de l’Intendance is the beating heart of the town. Beautiful 18th century facades may give off an air of grandeur, but this is a place that teems with real life.
Restaurants and bars jostle with cultural experiences, such as the Grand Theatre. It’s all highly photogenic and a great place to stop with a coffee and watch Bordeaux go about its business.
Shop in style
Leading north from the Grand Theatre, the Rue Sainte-Catherine is an entirely pedestrianised shopping street stretching over 1km, one of the longest in Europe.
It’s a busy place, popular with both locals and tourists, and encompasses both high street chains and more unique boutiques.
A taste of the high life
As this is wine country, you’d expect grand restaurants as well. There are three high-end choices each with two Michelin stars. Gordon Ramsay’s Le Pressoir d’Argent has a growing reputation and, situated in a grand hotel, is definitely somewhere to dress up for – you’ll need to book, too.
Turbot baked in seaweed, beef tartar with oyster cream and Perigord truffle crème brulee don’t come cheap, but it’s a satisfyingly luxurious experience.
Frederic Vigouroux’s laid-back bistro, Bouchon Bordelais, meanwhile, is a buzzing, affordable but inventive place to get a taste of real France alongside locals. La Tupina on Rue Porte de la Monnaie also comes highly recommended – previously voted the second best bistro in the world. Specialties of the region vie for your attention on most menus – expect to see entrecote grillee, duck confit and dishes cooked ‘a la Bordelaise’. The later usually means with a sauce of bone marrow, wine and shallots. Finish your meal with the small cake the locals call Canele de Bordeaux – so good you’ll want to bring some home.
The old to the new
To get a real sense of how Bordeaux – fully half of which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is keeping an eye on the future, you can wander into the renovated docklands to the north of the city, or just pull up a pew near Mama Shelter.
This trendy hotel chain has sparked new life into an old gas company building, with its Philippe Starck design and fashionable bars. Inside it’s a riot of colour and attracts a younger audience that tell you Bordeaux isn’t a city content to rest on its laurels.
A city of history, Bordeaux is also an example of how to make heritage hip. It’s also a great place to start if you’re exploring the south-west of France. Car hire in Bordeaux will send you on your merry way.